Trip Report 29 May - Cusco to Puno, Peru
Trip Report 29 May - Cusco to Puno, Peru
Distance since departure - 19,248 km
Distance travelled today - 402 km
Stayed - Puno Hostal Margarita (25 Soles)
Weather - 16 - 24 degrees C
Not much to report except cruising the Altiplano cuts power way back on the KTM. It loves cool sea level air with high octane gas and it will be a while until it sees that again.
Puno is a real tourist draw and we witnessed in horror a cultural show when dining on pizza tonight. After 4 actors changed costume 5 times, it was time to go.
The real entertainment was a table of 6 tourists who each videotaped the whole production from start to finish. Their was one guy that was making a movie and taking still shots at the same time! Now that's dexterity with a video cam in one hand and a camera in the other. I can only imagine who he might torture with this shlock once he gets home and has the neighbours over to review his holiday in its entirety.
Trip Report 28 May - Aguas Calientes to Cusco, Peru
Trip Report 28 May - Aguas Calientes to Cusco, Peru
Distance since departure - 17,190 km
Distance travelled today - 246 km
Stayed - The Point Lima ( 27 Peruvian Soles)
Weather - 18 - 24 degrees C
Man am I ever pissed off with the Peru Rail organization. We were repeatedly lied to about schedules. When we set off walking to Hydroelectric, the train that was not running passed us and later when we caught up, would not let us board. Aparently the train was for nationals only. No touristos!
Honesty is a scarce commodity down here. You only use if you are caught in a lie.
We were told that a train would be leaving for Hydroelectric at 7:30 am. Milan went to get tickets at 6:00 am. He was told unequivocally there is no 7:30 train. We started the 2 hour train track hike. The same way we came in. Train goes past us. Train won't take us. Train is not going to Hydroelectric. Train is for "nationals" only. I get a little crazy and shout obscenities. Not sure how many lies we were told but it left a bitter taste of the whole experience that was otherwise a great one. Oh well...It's an adventure.
Here is a little golf humour from the Friday Open gang to cheer me up...
A husband asks his wife, "If I should die first would you marry again?
"Of course," was her reply.
"You wouldn't bring him here to our house?"
"Of course, it's a perfectly good home."
"You wouldn't sleep in our bed?"
"Well, I wouldn't run out and buy a new bed right away."
"You wouldn't let him use my golf clubs?"
"No, He's left handed!"
Trip Report 27 May - Aguas Calientes to Machu Pichu day trip
Trip Report 27 May - Aguas Calientes to Machu Pichu day trip
Hiking and climbing. Climbing and hiking. What happened to my first choice for a URL...Too Lazy to Walk.com? In spite of some sore muscles, it was truly spectacular. We do an extra hike up the tallest peak that overlooks Machu Pichu. All this before 8 am. It was worth it and my sandals were mountain goat like. I go quicker down than I do up.
See the pics. A picture is worth a thousand words remember.
After 6 hours of adventure we head back to Aguas Calientes. Problem is upon return there is no train out and we climbed the monster of all peaks that overlooks Machu Pichu so walking out today is not very appealing. We get a hostel for the night, try to snooze and plan our escape for 7:30 am on the next days train. Nothing is certain when there are strikers and protesters about. (This is obvious foreshadowing for problems to come....)
Trip Report 26 May - Cusco to Hydroeelectric to Aguas Calientes, Peru
Trip Report 26 May - Cusco to Hydroeelectric to Aguas Calientes, Peru
Distance since departure - 17,190 km
Distance travelled today - 246 km
Stayed - ( 30 Peruvian Soles)
Weather - 18 - 24 degrees C
Great ride in. Mostly wonderful switchback pavement and a pass over 14,100 feet. An hour of exciting offroading as we approach Hydroelectric where we should be catching a train to Aguas Calientes.
No train option because of national strike. Natives are pissed because the government is giving away their land.
We walk 3 hours in the dark down the tracks. Gotta do it. It's Machu Pichu right? Beers and pizza on arrival. We need to get tickets and hostel and be ready to load first bus to Machu Pichu at 5:30 am!!!! Man, I am tired just thinking about it.
This is the way to do this trip on moto. Unfortunate about the train though.
Trip Report 25 May - Albancay to Cusco, Peru
Trip Report 25 May - Albancay to Cusco, Peru
Distance since departure - 17,190 km
Distance travelled today - 441 km
Stayed - The Point at Cusco ( 25 Peruvian Soles)
Weather - 18 - 24 degrees C
Short day scheduled today. And although it is hard to live up to riding in Colombia and Ecuador, Peru has been spectacular away from the coast. The scenery, elevation changes and riding is fantastic in the mountains.
We are 1 mile out of Albancay and driving very slowly as a result of Andrew's latest experience. He did go slippy sliding at 65 mph. I spoke with Milan to ensure a slow start so Andrew could make sure his moto was completely functional. Maybe I should not have said anything as riding aggressively is sometimes safer than just cruising.
Right before my eyes on a first gear switchback less than a mile out of town, Milan goes for a slide. It was probably a combination of a cold, square back tire and too much gas on a really greasy switchback. Nonetheless, that's no way to treat a guy on his birthday. Milan turns 25 today.
Happy birthday Milan. Here's hoping that the day finishes better than it started.
Trip Report 24 May - Nazca to Albancay, Peru
Trip Report 24 May - Nazca to Albancay, Peru
Distance since departure - 18,239 km
Distance travelled today - 485 km
Stayed - Hostal Eldorado ( 18 Peruvian Soles or $6)
Weather - 6 - 24 degrees C (occasional hail and sleet at 15,000 feet)
We originally thought we would make Cusco by the end of the day. The first mileage marker indicated 660 km and we were winding our way thru mountains at about 60 kph. We were not going to make Cusco.
Andrew barely made Albancay. He shot thru a drainage culvert that diverts water in rainy season. It had a couple of inches of water in it but aparently some algae or pond scum had taken hold of the concrete. He pretended his KLR was a super slider and as I understand from Milan's description slid about 90 feet without harm to self or moto. His Nalgene bottle, granola bag and one soft bag bore the brunt. He was back in action but making Cusco was definitely out of the question.
Both Milan and Andrew are travelling on a budget. They are riding on tires that I would have long ago discarded. I am hoping they are both ready to splurge on new rubber at the next opportunity.
I had a simnilar incident when I was their age but I was sporting a 69 Volkswagen Beatle on bald tires. After a hydroplaning incident with a semi 6 feet behind me I decided to live a little and bought some new shoes for the volks. Money well spent. I hope you guys are reading this!
Oh and did I mention we had hail at altitude today in the mountains. So far the heated vest is still at the bottom of one pannier. The goretex gloves came out, the heated grips were on and the jacket liner was buttoned up tight. It will grow colder as we head SOUTH. The riding today was amazing. Non stop twistys with altitude changes up and down to 15,000 feet. It is breathtakinking..literally.
Trip Report 23 May - Lima to Nazca, Peru
Trip Report 23 May - Lima to Nazca, Peru
Distance since departure - 17,754 km
Distance travelled today - 464 km
Stayed - Nazca Hostel ( 15 Peruvian Soles or just over $5)
Weather - mist or smog, it is hard to tell
The coast is dull. The ride is boring. We knew it before the day began.
We started to approach Nazca with some optimism of seeing something special. The Nazca lines are a "must see" in Peru. I am not sure they are worth going up in an airplane to see some interesting cartoon characters but what we could see from a roadside tower convinced us to save our money and buy some booze.
If you did something big in 600BC in the art world it did not have to be that spectacular. Maybe the interesting thing here is that they were catering to someone that could fly way back when. And flight as we know it did not exist for a couple thousand years.
Oh well, not to rain on their parade... we only saw a couple of the pictographs from roadside at the cost of $0.35 and that was enough for us. I also understand that everyone pukes who goes for the plane ride as they toss from port to starboard so everyone can see. I gave it a miss. We are on our way to Machu Pichu.
Trip Report 21 -22 May - Lima, Peru (rest and maintenance period)
Trip Report 21 -22 May - Lima, Peru (rest and maintenance period)
Lima is a big city and it is easy to get lost. Drivers are nuts. My bike was at the KTM dealer for a new rear tire. $190 for rubber and $25 for install and clean. I should be good for the approaching offroading in Central Peru and Bolivia. Looking forward to getting away from the big city and the desert coastline.
Attempted to play poker at the Majestic Casino which is attached to the Marriot. No luck getting a game. They had a 4 day tournament going with a $250 K guarantee but I was not wanting to commit to remaining in town until Monday. It allowed 3 rebuys and an add-on which could get expensive at $1000 per pop. I was hoping for a cash game but all 9 tables were taken with tourney action and after a 2 hour wait I returned to my hostel, no richer but no poorer except for the sushi I had while waiting for the game that never was at the Marriot.
I expect a tough slog ride tomorrow with things improving and getting interesting as we approach Machu Pichu in a few days. Other travellers at the hostel just loved the area so I expect it should be fun.
Trip Report 20 May - Huaraz to Lima, Peru
Trip Report 20 May - Huaraz to Lima, Peru
Distance since departure - 17,190 km
Distance travelled today - 441 km
Stayed - The Point Lima ( 25 Peruvian Soles)
Weather - mist or smog, it is hard to tell
Now Huaraz is really trek central. Gear stores and Adventure outlets abound but laundry was the priority. The mildew smell (remember rain day) permeating from the rafting bag was starting to offend anyone within a 3 meter radius. After laundry drop off it was time for some ceviche. Raw fish in the mountains? The coast is not that far and ceviche is a specialty. It was great. Not sure why Victoria does not have these specialty shops with their access to fresh seafood. I think it could be big.
We wandered and ate until our laundry was ready and then agreed to an early departure for Lima.
It was a significant ride to Lima but grows boring after leaving the mountains and getting back into the desert. Lima drivers are among the most agressive on the planet. Road rage is the plate du jour and we see several bullfighters taunting each other in their trucks and econo cars. It was not a pretty sight. They give motos no respect. I gave one the finger.
We eventually gave up to finding our hostel without aid and followed a cab driver the last 15 minutes. It was good to get parked for the day. After a burger, a few beers and some Bolivia travel tips from a couple of KLR pilots at the hostel, it was time for bed. We got a dormitory style room with 5 bunks. After midnight a moron turned on all the lights, was talking to himself and was in a panic searching for his missing socks. The guy was completely oblivious that 3 people were trying to sleep. I eventually inquired... are you drunk or retarded? It's not always perfect with shared accomodations.
Tomorrow is rear tire day!
Trip Report 19 May - Caraz to Huaraz, Peru
Trip Report 19 May - Caraz to Huaraz, Peru
Distance since departure - 16,749 km
Distance travelled today - 131 km
Stayed - Curup, Albergue (25 Peruvian Soles)
Weather - hot to cold as elevation changes.
After offroading in the dark last night it was great to see the sun out this am. We did not have a long riding day scheduled so it was a relaxing breakfast at the Rat Cafe and it really felt a bit like being in the Swiss Alps. Air was fresh, sun was shining, breakfast was great. Mountain views were spectacular. It is hard to capture the splendour on film as you are so immersed in it, you can hardly take it all in. A super wide angle lense might help but the human eye is such a miracle that a camera would have a tough time duplicating the images that appear regularly throughout the ride.
The town seems to survive on being a trek and climbing center. I am sure there are mountains in the neighbourhood that I should know the name of of but climbing up stairs brings shortness of breath at this altitude and some serious acclimitization would be required to get me to go any further. Better stick with the fuel injected KTM for the hill climbs. Bike is running good on a blend of premium and regular. Premium is getting harder to find. Back tire needs replacement in Lima.
Potholes take on a whole new meaning in the daytime. Once we do hit the road on pavement we learn quickly that dodging potholes in Peru is a real challenge. There are many and they are deep. Some will eat your wheel. We decide to climb a mountain and head to the hidden lagoons and we must climb about 4000 feet from the town to find them. Snow capped peaks are just a little beyond our reach before we turn back and head for Huaraz. Check out the pics!
Trip Report 18 May - Pacasmayo to Caraz, Peru
Trip Report 18 May - Pacasmayo to Caraz, Peru
Distance since departure - 16,618 km
Distance travelled today - 444 km
Stayed - Hostal Perla de la Los Andes in Town Square with indoor parking(20 Peruvian Soles)
Weather - Dry and dusty.
Trip Report 17 May - Marcora to Pacasmayo, Peru
Trip Report 17 May - Marcora to Pacasmayo, Peru
Distance since departure - 16,174 km
Distance travelled today - 517 km
Stayed - 3 Star La Estacion(38 Peruvian Soles)
Weather - Nevada like desert conditions at sea level.
Trip Report 16 May - Macara, Ecuador to Marcora, Peru
Trip Report 16 May - Macara, Ecuador to Marcora, Peru Distance since departure - 15,652 km
Distance travelled today - 287 km
Stayed - Point Hostel (31 Peruvian Soles)
Weather - Nevada like desert conditions at sea level.
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